
It was the kind of day where nothing escaped the wetness. A fine mist hung in the cold air and coated everything it contacted with tiny beads of moisture. Intermittently heavier rain fell, making it difficult to adjust the wiper blades to any consistent setting. The temperature at 48 degrees, had not budged in several hours.
It was late September in northern Minnesota, and a not so subtle reminder of the type of weather one should expect in another month. I hoped the fall would be more than a blip this year, not wanting the warmth of summer to fade too quickly. The drive up from the cities had been unremarkable, and I was looking forward to getting to Duluth and on up the north shore of Lake Superior before nightfall.
Duluth, on the most western, shore of the lake, is built on steep inclines rising from the shoreline. The approach from the south on Interstate 35 normally provides a panoramic view of the city with the majestic lake as a backdrop. But today, the mist and rain decreased visibility to a point where both the city and the world’s largest freshwater lake were virtually invisible.
There has always been something magical about Lake Superior for me, a magnetic pull, bringing me back to stand along its rugged shores. Ever since I was a small child, when I first witnessed its wild power and magnificence, the lake became a part of me. In my teenage years, its primitive beauty and unfathomed size helped put problems into perspective. It is a place where what you see is the same as what the Native Indians or earliest explorers saw hundreds of years ago.
Lake Superior carved out by Ice Age glaciers over 14,000 years ago, can be a hard and unforgiving environment. Too massive, primitive, and wild for man to tame. It is a lake that can charm you with placid waters, stunning beauty, and gentle breezes, and a lake that can hypnotize your senses when displaying its true power. Even on the calmest of days, I sensed its potential power and believed its containment was by choice.
Navigating through Duluth, I continued onto highway 61 and started up the shore. In my estimation, the drive from Duluth to the border of Canada is one of the most scenic drives in the country and one in which a person can get a feel for the immense size of Lake Superior.
My destination is a small cabin on the lakeside of 61 between Tofte and Lutzen. The cabin only sits back ten feet or so from the lakes rocky shoreline. The rock outcropping in front of the cabin drops 20 feet in varying levels like giant steps until meeting the surface of the water. Just to the right of the outcropping, a cove formed by thousands of years of pounding waves wore the rugged rock into smooth-sided cliffs that drop straight down into the water. There are huge boulders strewn across the bottom of the cove, and waves hitting the back wall, make a walloping noise amplified throughout the space.
I was nearing the completion of my book, and my writing coach suggested a retreat might help me push through to the finish line. A place unencumbered by the interruptions of daily life. I could not think of a better place to disconnect then on the North Shore. Here, time has a different meaning, and connected is about being observant of your surroundings.
The mist and intermittent rain had persisted on the drive up the shore, and I was disappointed in not being able to see the lake for most of the drive. It is a weird feeling traveling down a road knowing there is a body of water the size of Superior just below the highway, and you are unable to see it.
Arriving at the cabin just before nightfall, I unloaded my supplies and started a fire in the wood-burning stove. The owner had provided a pile of split birch wood, and before long, the stove’s soapstone panels removed the chill from the space. Ever so often I could hear the familiar wallop from the cove as a wave hit the cliff face, and was pushed back toward the lake. I was tired from the drive but had planned to spend some of the first evening writing. Going to all of the trouble of finding an out of the way place to write, creates anxiety to be productive when you get there.
I had not been to the shore in a couple of years and had forgotten about the complete darkness of a north shore night. Light pollution in the cities was so prevalent I had forgotten there were still places where one could experience real darkness. The only benchmark I can compare it to is the inside of the cave I visited near the Mississippi river one night. When there is a complete absence of light, you cannot see anything, even if it is an inch from your face.
I had left my writing journal in the front seat of the car; I was in the habit of writing long-hand for the initial pass on new writing. The method allowed me to quell my internal editor and dump words and ideas quicky from my mind onto the page. I did not realize as I settled in, that outside, the mist and rain had lifted, replaced by clear skies. I opened the door to go out to my car and was instantly taken aback by the sight of the night sky and the millions of illuminated stars across the heavens.
Never in my life before or since have I witnessed a sky so brilliant, and with such depth and dimension as what I saw that night. Standing on the edge of Superior under such an extraordinary night sky, for one fleeting moment, I was allowed insight into the incomprehensible vastness and grandeur of the world in which we live.








